We didn’t plan to go to Capri because I’ve been told that it was too “touristy” and superficial so I decided to go to the island of Procida instead. One day before leaving for our trip (yes I know we are not organized people), we realized that the ferry timetable for Procida didn’t match our schedule and anyway the B&B we booked was closer to Capri. Therefore, we headed to Capri (there’s a ferry for Capri every 30 minutes) and I don’t regret it even if I would have loved to see Procida.
In Naples we rented a car but unfortunately it wasn’t an old Fiat 500 (or an Ape Piaggio)… for that matter it wasn’t even a recent Fiat 500 but a Peugeot…what a disappointment ! However the landscapes were so beautiful that I quickly forgot about it. We took a ferry at Sorrento which in only 20 minutes took us to Capri. The ferry disembarked us at Marina Grande where you have 2 solutions to go up to the old city : ride up in the funicular or climb on foot. Of course I advise you to take these paths along cute houses and gardens even if there is a lot of steps to climb up (995 steps to be precise) but it’s quite quick and will “only” take you around 30 minutes. After climbing all these steps we were out of breath but happy and arrived in the center of the city filled with tourists and surrounded by luxury stores and chic restaurants. Ah this is what people were talking about ! However it was not that unpleasant to see. We only took a quick tour around because it wasn’t what we wanted to see. As soon as you go away from the center and from the crowd, you can see these long paths surrounded by wonderful villas and lush gardens : this is where the magic happens ! We went to the “belvedere di Tragara” overlooking Marina Piccola. This is one of the most beautiful viewpoints of the island. We enjoyed this outstanding view while eating a granita. I enjoyed also so much all these ceramic stairs. You know how much I love old floor tiles so I was in heaven ! My shoes were a match made in heaven for these stairs. I was invited to the new Bensimon boutique opening in Paris (5 rue Jean-Jacques Rousseau) on September, where they offered me a pair of white shoes so that I could customize them during a DIY workshop. I knew I wouldn’t’ be able to do something nice so I decided to leave them white and to customize them with some Bensimon tattoos. I love them like that, don’t you ?
In the afternoon, we took a bus to go to Anacapri, a village less famous than Capri on the island. You can also go by taxi or by bike.As soon as we arrived, we took an individual chairlift to fly over rich garden vegetation and admire this wonderful view (you can also go by foot if you want). The chairlift drops you on top of the Monte Solaro , the highest point of the island (589 meters), where there is a spectacular view on Capri, Naples gulf and Sorrento peninsula.Once on top, there isn’t much you can do except eat another granita on the big terrace facing this astonishing panorama. Life is hard. The 3 rocks carved by the sea that you can see in the middle of the water are the famous « faraglioni di Capri ». We took back the chairlift to go down and we took the time to stroll in the streets of Anacapri which is less invaded by tourists and more authentic. This village is really charming!
To eat :
We only spent the day on the island so we didn’t have that much time. We wanted to eat quickly but good still so we went to a small shop where we made our own sandwiches and it was delicious!
In the evening we went to a restaurant close to our hotel at Massa Lubrense (a 40 min ride from Sorrento harbor) which didn’t look anything special but mamma mia the food was amazing and the prices so cheap. We took an entrée, a meal, a dessert, a some wine and a digestive : we paid 20€ for 2 !As an antipasto we had a plate to share with delicatessen, cheese and tasty grilled vegetables. Then we had zucchini pastas for me and pastas with shells for him. (Sorry for the bad quality of the picture but it was quite dark).
Ristorante Eughenes – Via Roncato 9 – Termini, 80068 MASSA LUBRENSE (ITALIA)
Like I told you, Capri wasn’t on our list so the B&B we booked wasn’t on the island but anyway it’s the best idea because hotels in Capri are very expensive and it wasn’t too far. If you’re looking for a cute hotel go to Casale Villarena that we found on Airbnb, you will love it ! It’s impossible not to, it’s so charming ! It’s an old property from the 18th century lost in the middle of the lemon trees. By the way, don’t forget to have a glace of limoncello (lemon liquor) made with their own lemons.The restaurant and breakfast room.When you go up the stairs you see a cute vegetable garden facing the sea. There’s also a former farm and its wine cellar from the 1400’s which has been restored and turned into a restaurant where you can participate in wine and cheese tastings or just have a romantic dinner. Here is another original lamp idea after the tea pot in Naples !Here this is our beautiful terrace with a view on the sea. And this is our room or I should say our little flat with a kitchen, a bathroom, a room and a tiny living room. If you want to come with your family or friends there are bigger apartments you can rent. Everything in this b&b was charming, even the staff with whom we had a nice chat. Gorgeous place isn’t it ?
Casale Villarena – Via Cantone 3 – 80061 NERANO (Massa Lubrense)
I’m really happy we went to Capri after all, don’t listen too much to bad comments, as soon as you go on wild paths you can easily see the authentic side of the island. I just regret we didn’t have time to go on walking trails in the middle of Mediterranean maquis or to visit the blue cave or Villa Michele.
I’m leaving you with this picture of this fat cat, I think one of the biggest cats I’ve ever seen. I’m not surprised because I saw one cat in the street eating pasta ! Dolce vita is for everyone here. :)